​SNOWEY  RIVER​​

My puppies are raised with lots of love and care and a great deal of pride. Many hours of hard work go into the pairing up of the parents, and I look deeply into the pedigrees of my dogs before a mating takes place. I care about the homes that my puppies go to and reserve the right to select what I deem to be the 'right' homes for them, therefore and quite naturally I request that all puppy buyers sign a contract to ensure the safety, health and well being of my puppies for the duration of their lives.

I do not have litters all year round because I do not 'puppy farm', but rather breed for quality and a purpose to improve the breed - I always have a goal in mind with every litter born in our kennel - it is therefore advisable to book in advance. My puppies may not be sold, swopped, traded, given or leased out to a 3rd party without my written and signed consent, and I insist on first option to take the puppy back in the event that the new owners are no longer able to keep the puppy (even as a senior dog). This ensures that my puppies/adult dogs do not end up in animal shelters/RSPCA and remain even if re-homed by me in a safe and loving environment.

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I do not breed specifically to produce a multitude of ''champion'' titled dogs in the showring, but rather to produce THE ULTIMATE WHITE SWISS SHEPHERD DOG, a good all-rounder and loyal family companion dog. I strive to produce healthy White Swiss Shepherd dogs of outstanding beauty, charming temperaments and good sporting talent. Every dog is born with a talent - it is up to you as the new owner to bring this out in your puppy.

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I insist on the following which applies to all my puppy buyers/human's that have adopted my dogs :

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•  vaccinate your puppy FULLY against Parvo, Distemper, Rabies virus etc. annually after all puppy vaccines have been done

•  my puppies are not to be housed with aggressive breeds of dogs

• fly bitten ears are not acceptable - there are creams and sprays available to place on the ears to ward off insects

• Matted and unkept coats are unacceptable - regular grooming is required

• regular deworming is not an option - it is a requirement throughout the dogs life.(as is tick and flea control where necessary)

• my dogs may not be chained up nor placed in a small cage or the likes thereof for long periods of time

• my dogs once in your care may not be sold, swopped, traded, leased out or given to a 3rd party without my  written and signed consent - this ensures that our   dogs remain happy and well cared for with one family. If in the case of breeding I reserve the right to choose the male or female stud dog (please discuss)

• puppies 8 weeks and over should not be fed less than twice a day - 3x is the norm.

• fresh water at all times - no deep buckets, only shallow water dishes

• all fairly large size open drains (koi ponds , swimming pools) be closed off before the puppy arrives

• a fully and sufficiently fenced garden

• no electric or spike collar allowed to be used on any Snowey River puppies or dogs EVER

• my dogs may not be bred from unless a Breeders Contract is signed stipulating breeding regulations (all our puppies have breeding restrictions on their pedigrees - NP's which are only removed once all breeding criteria has been met). My pups may not be exported for stud purposes unless prior written consent has been given and prior agreements have been made and met (certain conditions apply- please enquire). Any Snowey River dogs to be exported must be spayed /neutered before leaving South Africa (unless prior written permission has been given to the contrary).

I RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING

•  purchase puppy and adult foods from a registered Veterinarian who will help recommend the right food through the development phases of your pups life and progressive stages of adulthood. (I am happy to give advise on dog food products etc).

•  Do not have your dogs ears flushed out - UNLESS recommended by a Vet - it is not necessary to clean/flush the inner ear unless a medical problem occurs. (even then get a 2nd opinion). Only clean the outer ear with an ear cleaner purchased from your Vet Clinic.

• clip your puppies nails regularly so they do not become sharp (this applies to adult dogs too).

• a soft slicker brush to brush the coat regularly (especially the fluff behind the ears, trousers and tails on long coats)

•  a mild puppy shampoo (always  close puppies ears so water drips into the ear which may cause head shaking and irritation)

• Clipping of dogs: I do not recommend that you clip/shave your dogs coat as the soft underwool and harsher guards hairs are there for a particular reason.

• (the coat helps regulate body temperature and protect your dog against the weather, hot or cold). When  you purchase a dog from me, it comes with certain responsibilities - one of them is grooming. The WSSD coat needs some attention and that includes regular brushing of once a week - when the breed starts changing its coat seasonally, daily brushing of the coat is required to remove loose coat.)

•  Pet Dent toothpaste and toothbrush purchased from your local Vet Clinic to keep teeth hygienically clean

 Raw hide chews and dental chews. If giving cow hooves, check that puppy hasn't chewed the hoof down to a small 'triangle'' - it is has then take it away as the puppy can choke on it - we find cow hooves a bit harsh on pups tender gums and prefer to advise giving to adult dogs)

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TRAINING

•  puppy socialising classes at a reputable dog club/school. Your puppy is classified as a LARGE BREED dog and therefore will need some manners, better taught when young. Once puppy has learnt basic manners, he will be a pleasure to take to the Vet Clinic, beach and out for walks

•  vaccination book (most dog clubs will want to check if your pup /dog has been vaccinated with the required vaccines)

•  soft collar (no choke chains - whether dead choke chains or live-  on puppies initially) and a leash (lead)

•  puppies favourite toy (ball or rope toy)

•  treats - if the dog school ​requires (there are many treats you can use : chopped up vienna sausage, baked liver treats - the list is endless)

•  for the handler : a waist coat with an abundance of pockets ! good non-slip sports shoes, rain coat and wellington boots (smile)

•  water dish and a container of fresh water

•  a crate if necessary and shade cloth or something to keep cool over the dog in teh summer months (always consider the weather)

•  and last but not least ! poop scoop (or/and disposable plastic bags - tip: I use nappy disposable bags) (always consider your environment)

EXERCISE/DOG WALKS

I highly recommend exercising your puppy on a relatively level open (and safe) field from puppyhood right through to his old age. Shepherds need freedom (this means off-lead) to run and play particularly in the early stages of development keeping in peak condition. Both doggie and human relationships can be formed during these walks making 'walkie' time a great social time for both dog and owner. I do not recommend dog jumping, agility, jumping into bakkies/high cars, flyball or carting during puppyhood and would advise that you wait until puppy is fully grown (at least 18 months of age) before participating in these sports. I recommend all dog sports and activities are done in ''MODERATION''. Recent studies show that as far as Hipdysplasia is concerned there are often a number of factors that can influence scoring : genetics, environment and food  - one or all can play a role.

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PUPPY PRICE AND DEPOSITS (reservation fees)

The price per litter/puppy can vary from time to time and it is advisable to ask what fee is being charged for a puppy from a particular litter. A puppy deposit is required on the booking of your puppy and is non-refundable, so I ask that all future puppy buyers do their research  on the breed before booking. Should we not be able to accommodate your order, your deposit automatically goes to our next litter. (please discuss before placing deposit so all is clear). ALL family members must WANT the puppy and not just one family member. I reserve the right to cancel bookings or puppy sales without prejudice ( at my discretion) at any stage should we find it necessary to do so. My  primary concern is that my puppies/dogs go to caring homes and that my new owners are HAPPY owners --------

BECAUSE I CARE !

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REGISTRATION/MICROCHIPPING

My puppies are ALL registered with the KENNEL UNION OF SOUTHERN AFRICA, Cape Town (FCI), however,  I reserve the right to change the organization with which I would like to register my puppies with at any time before, during or after bookings. I breed with both full registered and development registered dogs. The combination of 3 full generations to development registered dogs provides a good balance of linebreeding/or outcrossing to totally new bloodlines(or partially new), hence refreshing what I have already built on over the years. My pups are Vet checked at around 6 weeks of age, are given their first vaccinations, deworming and are microchipped professionally - I don't cut corners with our dogs or your money.  I do not guarantee coat types. I DO NOT BREED UNREGISTERED dogs, since we believe that the FULL statistics of registered White Swiss Shepherd dogs should be known from each country for research purposes. *Registration Fee : Please ask. (Kusa usually R477) ALL NEW PUPPY BUYERS ARE TO READ AND UNDERSTAND FULLY THE CONDITIONS OF SALE OF MY PUPPIES THEREFORE I ASK THAT YOU READ MY PUPPY PAGE.

 (a non-refundable Puppy deposit is required on booking).

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